By Pat Murphy

 

If you have visited Rome as a pilgrim, or even had a brief visit to take in the sights, you will have been aware of the heavy traffic in the city. 

The drivers often make up their own rules, such as parking across a zebra crossing, or fully on a pavement. One of the major basilicas in the city, St John Lateran, is a couple of miles from Vatican City, and is quite accessible by public transport, either bus or metro. However, there are three or four of the busiest and most complicated roads to cross from the metro station - 10 lanes of busy traffic I believe. You certainly say your pilgrim prayers, and maybe a decade of the rosary as you dodge in and out of the traffic. 

It’s well worth a visit though. It is the Papal Basilica, the seat of the Bishop of Rome. Indeed, during the Middle Ages it was the Papal residence, and a number of Popes have chosen the basilica as their place of rest. Founded in 324 AD, it’s the oldest church in Rome, and the oldest basilica in the world, although, as ever, very little of the original building now remains due to a couple of fires over the centuries. 

As you enter the basilica, the façade alone is larger than a number of parish churches. The interior, the body of the building, was designed by Borromini, so active in Rome in the 17th century. The vast area always impresses me, but also the 12 alcoves that were created for the statues of the 12 Apostles. Each of these larger-than-life statues was sponsored by a wealthy merchant or friend of the Pope, who himself funded the statue of St Peter, who traditionally takes the place of Judas (yes, the Pope tended to be a man of means centuries ago!). 

There is so much energy and strength in each of these statues; they never cease to take my breath away while I try to imagine the lives these great men must have led. I always try to make time when in the city to visit this basilica and enjoy 15 minutes or so sitting and just working my eyes around the statues. The size and movement in each statue make you realise the power that was - and still is - in Rome. 

The high altar and side altars are equally interesting, and often rather quiet compared to the usual bustle of the city. Then it’s time to look in the small shop, that so many of the churches in Rome have in order to bring a little bit of extra income, and then dodge the traffic again for the gentleness of the Scala Santa church, “the church of the steps”. I will include this in a later jotting.