By Pat Murphy

 

During the month of April, we celebrate the feast of St Catherine of Siena, a saint of the 14th century who we still have extensive documentation about. 

She was a member of the Third Order of St Dominic and spent much time in Rome, and in fact died in the city at the young age of 33. Her body is preserved in the lovely church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. After much fighting between the cities of Rome and Siena, her birth city, as to where she should be buried, her head was removed and transferred to Siena the city of her birth – rather grisly.

The church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva in Rome is a minor basilica and is really quite stunning. Built on the remains of the temple of Isis, it is literally just around the corner from the Pantheon. As you walk towards the church, there is usually a very good musician singing or playing an instrument, which always adds to the enjoyment of the visit for me. There is a small obelisk – well, small by Roman standards – and at the top is an elephant. 

The 6th century obelisk was brought from a temple of Isis in Greece. When a pilgrim asked the artist Bellini “why an elephant?” he replied, “why not?” The elephant, according to Pope Alexander, represents wisdom and intelligence.

The church itself is a pleasure to the eye. The arched vaulted ceiling is vibrant blue with gilded stars, and a brilliant red trim draws you in. Where to start – the side chapels, the frescos? I am normally drawn to the high altar where the saint’s body rests, and also a beautiful sculpture to the left by Michelangelo of Christ the Redeemer. It’s such a simple and gentle work by the great man.

Like many of the basilicas in Rome, Sopra Minerva is the burial place of a few Popes, and an English Cardinal, Philip Howard. It’s also the resting place of Dominican friar Blessed Fra Angelico. Best known, of course, for painting the cells at the monastery of San Marco in Florence, he was a Dominican who lived his later days in the Dominican monastery next door to Sopra Minerva.

This church is certainly not to be missed even on a short visit to the eternal city.